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A new lawn asks for a fair amount in its first two months and very little after that. Most first-year problems come from doing too much too early rather than too little.
The First Six Weeks
- Water. Daily and thoroughly for a fortnight, then tapering. The single most important thing, and the one that fails lawns
- Stay off it. Entirely for a week, minimally for three
- First mow at three to four weeks, once it resists a gentle tug. Blades high, blades sharp
- Do not feed it. A pre-turf feed went in before laying and that is enough for now
- Do not use weedkiller. Not for six months. New grass will not tolerate it
- Leave the seams alone. They close on their own
Mowing, Which Does More Than Anything Else
Never take more than a third of the height in one cut. Cutting short stresses the grass, weakens the roots and opens the sward for moss and weeds. Mowing often, taking a little each time, is what produces a thick lawn — more than any feed does.
- First cut — highest setting, just topping it
- Next few cuts — drop the height gradually
- Settled height — 25 to 40mm for an ordinary family lawn. Higher in summer, and higher in shade
- Frequency — weekly in the growing season, more in a flush
- Vary the direction each time, which stops the grass laying over one way
- Sharp blades. Blunt ones tear rather than cut and leave a lawn looking brown-tipped a day later
The First Year, by Season
Months 2 to 3
Regular mowing, water only in dry spells, and keep off it during hard frost — walking on frozen grass damages it.
Months 3 to 6
A light spring or summer feed is now reasonable. Hand-pull any obvious weeds rather than treating them. Edges can be cut in properly.
Months 6 to 12
Normal maintenance. An autumn feed, which is a different formulation from a spring one and more useful than people think. Weedkiller is now safe if it is genuinely needed.
The second spring
Scarify lightly if there is thatch, aerate if the ground is compacted, overseed any thin patches, and feed. From here it is an established lawn.
Common First-Year Problems
- Yellowing in patches — usually dry spots, sometimes a dog. Water more in that area
- Seams still visible after two months — generally under-watering earlier on. It usually closes with time and good mowing
- Weeds appearing — normal. Most are annuals that mowing removes. Hand-pull the perennials for the first six months
- Mushrooms — organic matter decaying in the soil. Harmless and temporary
- Moss — means shade, wet or compaction, and it is worth identifying which rather than just treating it
- Dips appearing — settlement. Topdress with sieved soil in thin layers rather than lifting the turf
The Thing Most Worth Doing
Mow often, mow high, and water deeply rather than frequently. Those three habits produce a better lawn than any product you can buy, and they cost nothing.
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